Northern Exposure

So heto, back to reality after a tremendous Holy Week break up North. That little problem we have at the office is still waiting to be solved... and it looks more and more like there's really no way we can get the result we want. You have no clue what I'm talking about, right? Good for you! You're better off not knowing...

Anyways, so the family did do that road trip up North and my, it was incredible! Sure the drivers in the family were exhausted, but all in all, I think we all thought it was worth it. Laoag was a nice, pretty place. We didn't stay very long but at least see got to visit the Paoay Church. Vigan was fantastic and I only wish we could've stayed longer - except for that part where my new purse got mauled by one of Chavit's tigers. Wait a minute, I take that back --- getting your purse mauled by a tiger was actually kind of cool.... But i'll tell that story later.

Pagudpud is great, and I loved the rawness of the place. Discovered this very recently opened resort tucked away in one deserted corner of beach and I can't wait to go back. It was a trip too, that I saw two old friends there. It was one of those "of-all-the-places-in-the-world-to-see-you-it-should-be-out-here" moments... Anyhow, I liked that spot so much I wrote something about it, and here it goes: (See the photo album too!)

Kapuluhan Vista Resort: A Marvel In Pagudpud

Tucked away at a far corner around two coves from the more popular Blue Lagoon, Kapuluan Resort occupies a spot with a surreal and untamed sort of beauty. Imagine yourself standing on a craggy coast looking out onto a sea with an obviously treacherous surf. The sand is white and coarse beneath your feet. The wind is powerful and it whips the hair out of your face and sings in your ears. To your left, the view of the tempestuous sea is broken by two mounds of rock resembling a woman’s breasts. There is also a strange fallen tree resting where the waves break, its roots upturned to the sky.

The coastline turns a corner and disappears thereabouts, but not before a grove of tall coconut trees, bent backwards by the unforgiving wind, makes a last stand on green grass. Behind the grove, a small river runs out to the sea. Or at least it tries to, because the tide is low and it cannot quite reach. So for now, it resembles a large pond and you half expect to see flamingoes or swans in the water. Instead, a young man squats on the grass watching his carabao drink his fill. Behind you, the sun is setting behind a stretch of rice paddies and green rolling hills.

In the midst of this image sits Kapuluan. I couldn’t really decide if the place blends into or makes a stark contrast with its surroundings. The point is, it works.

The resort itself is a wonder. The architecture is minimalist and understated yet warm --- sort of Zen meets Mediterranean, or less obviously, country meets tropical. Yet, the word “eclectic” does not fit. Eclectic somehow connotes a disarray of all sorts of things. But for all its contrasts, Kapuluan’s design is coherent.

The resort also offers amenities some of which are not available elsewhere in Pagudpud. Besides piped in hot and cold water, air conditioning and satellite TV, and all that jazz, they also have a small, symmetric infinity pool. After a day of surfing and rough, salty water, it must be a trip to just soak in that pool. What tops my list though are the small huts/cabanas, with floors that could be folded so that they double as lounge chairs from where you can watch the sea the whole day long while sipping cold beer. Happiness!

I’m almost glad that I only stumbled upon Kapuluan and wasn’t actually able to stay there. For one thing, discovering the place was fun. Imagine walking along a harsh and unfamiliar shore and having this oasis sort of just pop within view. Then you walk in and you find a place that is so utterly “chill.” The best part about not having stayed there is that it gives me another reason to go back to Pagudpud. And back, I definitely will be.

Comments

[Ezra]

Iona you must've been a photographer in your past life, your pictures have excellent composition. I love that your blog reflects the sensitive artist that is so you.

[Marge]

Hi Iona,

I can't wait to go back to Pagudpud, too. We had a great time there last May 2005 and it was really "bitin". Sad, but we weren't able to discover Kapuluan. Kasi naman po sa Blue Lagoon pa lang, enjoy na kaming nakababad sa tubig. Kahit ako, I was so overwhelmed by the raw beauty of the place. Ganda ng mga kuha mo. How I wish I can be a great photographer too. Regards!

[Vincent]

asan ang picture nung nilalapa ka ng leon? hihihihi!

[iona]

hehe. una: hindi ako yung nilapa.... yung bag ko. pangalawa: tigre yung lumapa... hindi leon. hehe. (not listening ito!) ;p